Our Rome, Italy Guide & Things To Do, See and Eat
A few general notes:
From the GOAT Anthony Bourdain, “it’s not the big things they tell you about; the sculptures, the squares and buildings, the monuments, though they are amazing. It’s the little things. The tiny details. The improbable awesomeness of every, little, damn, thing.”
Ive heard people explain Rome as Italy’s NYC (and Florence as Boston), it’s not a perfect analogy, but it’s pretty good. Rome has some very touristy areas that are dirty, expensive and sketchy at times, but if you want to see it all, are unavoidable. If you spend all your time around these areas, you’re missing the point.
There’s two Romes:
1. the must-see tourist attractions, that are … yes … must see. The Colosseum, Pantheon, Castle St Angelo, Vatican, etc. are all as advertised ... incredible … but outside of walking through them, or getting a drink outside and admiring them, move on. They’re surrounded by shitty restaurants, huge crowds, and expensive nonsense.
2. The best part of Rome is the neighborhoods, Piazzas and restaurants. Away from the sights, in neighborhoods like Trastevere, Campo Di Fiori, Aventino and Testaccio.
The best Roman experience is knowing the difference and doing both: see the sights, take it in, then enjoy the vibes away from the tourist traps.
Trains
Quick note about traveling, the train system in Italy is amazing and super easy. I highly highly recommend upgrading to at least the lowest tier of first / business class (don’t be a broke boy). ESPECIALLY if you’re traveling with big luggage. It’s usually very cheap compared to your overall ticket, like an additional $20, and the assigned seats + more space really makes it stress free.
You also really don’t need to get to the station super early, your track # isn’t announced until 10 mins before.
Historical Sights
Vitóriano Monument - The roof is probably the best view of Rome and a great starting point. The building itself is really impressive. You’re dead center at the highest point in the city, views of the Colosseum, Forum, Pantheon, and the mountains on a clear day. The building is a monument to Italy’s independence. It’s free to get in, honestly the museum piece you can skip, but pay the $15 euros to take the elevator to the top, it’s epic.
Vatican - Would recommend a tour guide to skip lines / know what you’re looking at. If you like history or are religious, you should probably bite the bullet and do it. It’s unbelievably touristy, packed, expensive and borderline stressful … but the Basilica, Chapel and art collection is really unbelievable. It’s an absolute money suck, once you enter the walls don’t buy anything. I once spent $40 on two coffees and a donut.
Colosseum / Forum / Palatine Hill - highly recommend the private tour that includes the underground part, you get to see where the gladiators came through, where they kept the wild beasts, how it all worked. Really really cool. For the Forum and Palentine hill, a tour guide will help you understand what you’re looking at, otherwise it’s just kind of random ruins. BOOK TICKETS IN ADVANCE.
Caste St Angelo - my favorite historical thing, encompasses all of Roman history, had importance from Ancient Rome to the Renaissance. Started as Hadrian’s tomb, was a defensive castle in the middle ages, was the escape route and residence for the pope. Really cool. Little cafe and great views when you reach the top.
Spanish Steps - DUMB, just stairs that were built in 1700s. It is a nice area with all the high end stores, but it’s ussually packed and annoying. You’ll be like what … that's it??? Maybe I’m missing something.
Trevi Fountain - cool, still powered by thousands year old aqueducts delivering water from hundreds of miles away. Unfortunately ussually so crowded its kind of is annoying, but really is beautiful and a tribute to the engineering / urban planning that made Rome, Rome.
Pantheon - So cool. So big. 2000 years old. After you walk through, grab a table in the square, get a drink, and just look at it. Unbelievable something so huge and so old.
Churches - go into every church you can, if the door is open you can go in and it’s free, most are really beautiful and just casually stunning. St. Andrea is my fav. Remember to take your hat off when you go in or they get pissed, from experience.
Aventino Hill, Key Hole and Orange Grove - on top of Aventino hill (where Julius Caesar grew up, fun fact). The key hole is cool, but if there’s a line skip it and see image above (it’s just a cool view of the Vatican through some hedges). The real treasure is the orange grove and an incredible view, bring a sandwich and some wine and have a picnic. Very romantic and chill. I proposed here, no big deal.
Circus Maximus - Was once the largest stadium ever built, over 250,000 Romans watched the chariot races. Google what it used to look like then you’ll understand what you’re looking at. Now it’s just a big park people run at. Also where huge concerts happen now, like The Stones, Guns N Roses, etc.. Really cool. Do this after your picnic^, it’s just at the bottom of Aventino hill.
Trastevere (neighborhood) - our fav neighborhood, most the dinner recs below are there. Oldest area, like you’re in a time machine, cobble stone and no cars. Back of the neighborhood is a huge hill, incredible views, highly recommend just wandering around. Make sure to spend some time here.
Testaccio (neighborhood) - as the Romans say, the last Roman neighborhood in Rome. Amazing restaurants, amazing food market, not much English. Can be a little intimidating, kind of an expert level neighborhood.
Water fountains - I’m a little autistic so maybe this isn’t as cool to everyone else, but I love them. You’ll see them everywhere, you can drink from them (clutch in the summer), and the water comes in via the aqueducts from the mountains, same way it has for thousands of years.
Torre Argentina Square - you’ll walk by this at some point and not know what it is. Julius Caesar was murdered here. Also a cat sanctuary so there’s lots of little guys running around.
Food 🤤
It goes Antipast (salad), Primi (pasta), Secondi (meat), in that order. Obviously you don’t have to, you can definitly order a pasta or meat as your single course, but that’s the tradition. Kels and I have found sharing one of each is the play.
If you don’t make an effort to eat vegetables, prepare to be constipated (artichokes are the easiest and most delicious solution).
If you’re a northern European like me, bring Tums or Alcha Selzer.
Never eat at a restaurant if:
It’s near a tourist attraction
There’s pictures on the menu
There’s someone outside hounding you to come in
Roman Dishes Of Note:
The four Roman pastas that are on every menu, all incredible:
Amatraciana - tomato, pork cheek
Carbonara - egg, pork cheek
Gricia - like a lighter Carbonara, no egg, my favorite
Cacio Pepe - peporino and black pepper.
Try each of them at least once.
Roman Artichoke (Carciofo alla Romana) - so so so good
Oxtail (Coda Alla Vaccinara) - Melt in your mouth meat off the bone, usually in a tomato sauce. Def try, so good
Anything suckling, cow, pig, lamb, rabbit - it’s baby animals, kinda f*cked up, but delicious.
Avoid Tripe!!!!! - it’s a classic so if you want to try it by all means, but it’s cow stomach lining and it’s gross. You’ve been warned.
Gelato - if the buckets have waves, it’s not good. It should be flat in the bucket.
Coffee - don’t get milk in your coffee after noon…allegedly…we still do it
Gelato - if the buckets have waves, it’s not good. It should be flat in the bucket.
Coffee - don’t get milk in your coffee after noon, they will judge you.
Beer & Wine
Beer:
Peroni
Moretti
Menabrea - my fav
Messina - Kels’ fav
Wine:
You can ussually ask for house red or white wine, comes in a half liter or liter most the time. Always good and very very cheap.
In Tuscany, the hierarchy is basically: Chianti → Chianti Classico → Chianti Classico Riserva
Montepulciano DaBruzzo - another great region
Rossa Montalcino - fire
Brunello - either unbleivabley good, or kind of cough syrupy. Expensive.
Barolo - the best italian wine, and affordable while you’re in Italy (in the States, not so much)
Restaurants
There’s an infinite number of amazing restaraunts in Rome (away from the tourist areas), but these are just a few of our favorites.
Da Enzo Al 29 - first come first serve, if there’s a line they’ll give you drinks and snacks while you wait. Worth the wait
Dar Poeta - the “best” pizza in Rome. Not the best, but really really really good.
Da Lucia - super mom and pop, family owned, authentic. Menu is just on a blackboard. Go on a Thursday if you can and get the Gnocci. Can be a little intimidating cuz it’s a local spot, but just be nice and they’ll reciprocate.
Pizzeria Remo - the best pizza in Rome. In Testaccio, which is the locals neighborhood, don’t expect much English. Same as above, just go with the flow and don’t be intimidated.
Er Pizzicarola - Amazing sandwiches and the best charcuterie board you’ll ever have. Have a drink and hang out outside. Run by a mother and her son and daughter. They were our family while we were there. Tell them Drew and Kelsey who lived above them sent you (I hope they remember us)
Trappazino - famous and a must try. You can sit down or get one at the window takeaway. it’s hard to explain but it’s like a pita pocket but Italian bread with your choice of meat, fucking amazing. I think about it daily
Tavernacca Da Bruno - need a taxi but amazing meal
Oysteria da zi Umberto - best Cacio Pepe. If you’re going to try Pepe get it here. Make a Rez or show up at opening
Da Enzo Al 29 - Gricia and Amatraciana
Trappazino
Sports
It’s either Roma or Lazio, and the answer is Roma. Catch a game in a local bar it’s a lot of fun. Or go to the Stadia Olimpico to see a game. This year they reached the Champion’s League for the first time in 7 years, they’re a very fun team. Forza Roma!
